High tech Wollfaden mit speziell geformtem Klebepad für Segelfieger.

Der Mk IV "high tech" Wollfaden hat ein spezielles, glasklares Turbulator Klebepad, das rückstandslos von der Kabinenhaube entfernbar ist. Das Klebepad hebt den Faden 0,95mm über die Haube, um Kratzer und statische Aufladung zu vermindern.

Jeder Faden wird in einem speziellen 28 Schritte umfassenden Produktionsprozess von Wings and Wheels in den USA in Handarbeit hergestellt. Der Prozess führt zu perfekter Klarheit der Klebebasis und höchster Qualität.

Lieferbar in den beliebten Farben Blau und Rot. Faden ist extralang und kann nach Belieben gekürzt werden.

Lieferumfang:

• Wollfaden mit Klebebasis
• Kleiner Punkt zur Feststellung des Mittelpunkts der Haube

Installationsanweisungen (nur englisch):

Determine ship's true centerline for mounting the MKIV base and included optional center index dot. A good method is to stretch a string from nose to tail. Tie or tape one end of string to glider nose and the other end to top center of horizontal stab or vertical stab. Stand away from front of glider and sight down string to be sure it’s straight and on center all the way from nose to tail. You may need to lift and move the string from one side or the other where it crests the curve of the canopy. Place a piece of masking tape under string just forward of where you will install MKIV and mark centerline on tape with pen. Move string off to side and clean area for MKIV with denatured or rubbing alcohol and soft cloth (I recommend microfiber). Move string back to center.

Make a paper template guide to insure an easy and accurate installation. Cut a strip of paper approx 2” (50mm) wide by about 8” (200mm) long. Position the MKIV base at the center of this strip so that only the curved portion at the back of the base is off the paper (align the two corners of the rounded base with the edge of the paper). Trace around pointed front of MKIV base with pencil (no ink) so as to form a “V”. Cut out “V” with scissors and discard. Place template with “V” cutout under string (apex of template “V cutout facing forward - open end facing aft). Sight down on template strip to insure it is perpendicular to string, tape ends in place.

Yarn is supplied long, cut length to suit and tie simple overhand knot ¼” (6mm) from end to prevent fraying. If using optional center index dot (this is the reflective dot located loose in MKIV package) temporarily place MKIV base in template “V” and gently stretch yarn aft. Mark desired dot location with tape on outside of canopy. Dot will be installed on INSIDE surface of canopy.

With “V” template and center mark in place, remove string. Clean inside canopy surface where the index dot will go with denatured or rubbing alcohol. Hold index dot between finders and bend one edge gently away from reflective side to loosen dot from backing (do not crease). Use tip of a clean utility knife, or other small knife blade or sharp tweezers, to lift edge of dot from liner. Then using knife tip or tweezers, position dot before smoothing it down with your finger. Use caution to avoid scratching canopy with knife blade. With dot installed, close canopy.

Hold MKIV base only by edges or yarn and remove the red adhesive liner by lifting a rear corner edge with a knife tip so you can grasp liner and peel it off with tweezers or fingernails. Re-attach about ¼” (6mm) of pointed tip of the removed liner to the back center of base adhesive to form a temporary “handle”. CAUTION! -do not touch the exposed clear adhesive surface with anything but the removed liner or allow yarn to contact it as this will impair the optical clarity of the base. The adhesive is very tacky and once it touches the canopy plastic you will be unable to reposition the base without damaging the MKIV. Steady your hand against canopy and hold base using “liner handle” in position over the “V” template cutout. Maintain a slight and even gap on both sides of the “V” cutout and base. Do not butt the MKIV base tightly into the “V” or adhesive may overlap or touch the paper template.

Okay, the goal is to get it on straight and with no bubbles under the adhesive, take it slow and this will be easy. Touch the pointed end of the base to the canopy first while holding the back of the base up a bit, away from the canopy using the “handle”. Use a smooth object (retracted pen tip etc) to slowly work the base down while watching the adhesive progressively make contact with the canopy, this is easy to see and looks like water between two sheets of glass. Before getting more than half the base attached, and while bending up the back of base to keep it off canopy, grasp rear of base by edge corners and gently remove the red liner “handle” by peeling off ( twist “handle” slightly and pull in line with canopy surface, not in line with base surface - - so as not to stretch adhesive). Work remainder of base down. With finger, firmly press base down for several seconds. You may fly immediately, but please don’t wash or disturb the MKIV base for 24 hours to allow full adhesive strength.

After several years of exposure you may wish to replace the MKIV as the yarn wears or fades. To remove the old base lift edge and “roll off” with finger pressure. Or use a fingernail, knife blade, or similar tool to lift an edge of the clear plastic top layer using caution not to touch canopy with any tool. Grasp edge of base with fingers or needle- nose pliers and slowly peel off. Any remaining adhesive residue will cleanly roll off with finger pressure.

Installationsanweisungen (nur englisch):

Determine ship's true centerline for mounting the MKIV base and included optional center index dot. A good method is to stretch a string from nose to tail. Tie or tape one end of string to glider nose and the other end to top center of horizontal stab or vertical stab. Stand away from front of glider and sight down string to be sure it’s straight and on center all the way from nose to tail. You may need to lift and move the string from one side or the other where it crests the curve of the canopy. Place a piece of masking tape under string just forward of where you will install MKIV and mark centerline on tape with pen. Move string off to side and clean area for MKIV with denatured or rubbing alcohol and soft cloth (I recommend microfiber). Move string back to center.

Make a paper template guide to insure an easy and accurate installation. Cut a strip of paper approx 2” (50mm) wide by about 8” (200mm) long. Position the MKIV base at the center of this strip so that only the curved portion at the back of the base is off the paper (align the two corners of the rounded base with the edge of the paper). Trace around pointed front of MKIV base with pencil (no ink) so as to form a “V”. Cut out “V” with scissors and discard. Place template with “V” cutout under string (apex of template “V cutout facing forward - open end facing aft). Sight down on template strip to insure it is perpendicular to string, tape ends in place.

Yarn is supplied long, cut length to suit and tie simple overhand knot ¼” (6mm) from end to prevent fraying. If using optional center index dot (this is the reflective dot located loose in MKIV package) temporarily place MKIV base in template “V” and gently stretch yarn aft. Mark desired dot location with tape on outside of canopy. Dot will be installed on INSIDE surface of canopy.

With “V” template and center mark in place, remove string. Clean inside canopy surface where the index dot will go with denatured or rubbing alcohol. Hold index dot between finders and bend one edge gently away from reflective side to loosen dot from backing (do not crease). Use tip of a clean utility knife, or other small knife blade or sharp tweezers, to lift edge of dot from liner. Then using knife tip or tweezers, position dot before smoothing it down with your finger. Use caution to avoid scratching canopy with knife blade. With dot installed, close canopy.

Hold MKIV base only by edges or yarn and remove the red adhesive liner by lifting a rear corner edge with a knife tip so you can grasp liner and peel it off with tweezers or fingernails. Re-attach about ¼” (6mm) of pointed tip of the removed liner to the back center of base adhesive to form a temporary “handle”. CAUTION! -do not touch the exposed clear adhesive surface with anything but the removed liner or allow yarn to contact it as this will impair the optical clarity of the base. The adhesive is very tacky and once it touches the canopy plastic you will be unable to reposition the base without damaging the MKIV. Steady your hand against canopy and hold base using “liner handle” in position over the “V” template cutout. Maintain a slight and even gap on both sides of the “V” cutout and base. Do not butt the MKIV base tightly into the “V” or adhesive may overlap or touch the paper template.

Okay, the goal is to get it on straight and with no bubbles under the adhesive, take it slow and this will be easy. Touch the pointed end of the base to the canopy first while holding the back of the base up a bit, away from the canopy using the “handle”. Use a smooth object (retracted pen tip etc) to slowly work the base down while watching the adhesive progressively make contact with the canopy, this is easy to see and looks like water between two sheets of glass. Before getting more than half the base attached, and while bending up the back of base to keep it off canopy, grasp rear of base by edge corners and gently remove the red liner “handle” by peeling off ( twist “handle” slightly and pull in line with canopy surface, not in line with base surface - - so as not to stretch adhesive). Work remainder of base down. With finger, firmly press base down for several seconds. You may fly immediately, but please don’t wash or disturb the MKIV base for 24 hours to allow full adhesive strength.

After several years of exposure you may wish to replace the MKIV as the yarn wears or fades. To remove the old base lift edge and “roll off” with finger pressure. Or use a fingernail, knife blade, or similar tool to lift an edge of the clear plastic top layer using caution not to touch canopy with any tool. Grasp edge of base with fingers or needle- nose pliers and slowly peel off. Any remaining adhesive residue will cleanly roll off with finger pressure.

Strong coffee to suck with stimulating guarana.
 
AirmenBeans are the finest coffee pastilles with guarana based on gum arabic and other high-quality ingredients. AirmenBeans coffee pastilles with guarana taste good and promote alertness, stamina and performance.
 
Origin: For decades there was a great mystery about South American pilots who, after hours of flying, still had incredibly high performance. During their missions, these "AIRMEN" ate sweets made from guarana, coffee and sugar cane prepared according to a traditional recipe. Already centuries ago the Incas used the mysterious, invigorating powers of guarana, the roasted and crushed seeds of a Brazilian liana species. No magic, the concentration of caffeine, which in contrast to coffee is about four times as high, combined with special tanning agents, increases attention and enhances strength and endurance. Differently than the short kick as by coffee, the Guarana works over hours. The original recipe was revised according to the latest scientific findings. Today, the delicious AirmenBeans in the form of the finest coffee guarana pastilles with a fine coffee taste offer an incomparable experience for the palate, mind and body. AirmenBeans, the finest coffee flavour can be enjoyed simply and easily at work, in sports and in your leisure time.
 
The pastilles are sugar-free, tooth-friendly and calorie-reduced, only 1.43 kcal/pastille.
 
Carton with 24 packets of 21 pastilles each.

Strong coffee to suck with stimulating guarana.
 
AirmenBeans are the finest coffee pastilles with guarana based on gum arabic and other high-quality ingredients. AirmenBeans coffee pastilles with guarana taste good and promote alertness, stamina and performance.
 
Origin: For decades there was a great mystery about South American pilots who, after hours of flying, still had incredibly high performance. During their missions, these "AIRMEN" ate sweets made from guarana, coffee and sugar cane prepared according to a traditional recipe. Already centuries ago the Incas used the mysterious, invigorating powers of guarana, the roasted and crushed seeds of a Brazilian liana species. No magic, the concentration of caffeine, which in contrast to coffee is about four times as high, combined with special tanning agents, increases attention and enhances strength and endurance. Differently than the short kick as by coffee, the Guarana works over hours. The original recipe was revised according to the latest scientific findings. Today, the delicious AirmenBeans in the form of the finest coffee guarana pastilles with a fine coffee taste offer an incomparable experience for the palate, mind and body. AirmenBeans, the finest coffee flavour can be enjoyed simply and easily at work, in sports and in your leisure time.
 
The pastilles are sugar-free, tooth-friendly and calorie-reduced, only 1.43 kcal/pastille.
 
Gift box with hinged lid made of untreated cedar wood, with two packets of AirmanBeans, 21 each.

The third volume of the gliding cult book by the British author Gerrard Dale in English language.

One of the great joys of gliding is that it is many things to many people. Whilst our first steps typically revolve around learning to fly the glider, we soon start to set ourselves ever more challenging goals. Whether that be flying our first cross-country flight or entering our first competition, to setting a new national record or winning an international medal. Put simply, gliding is far more than just a form of aviation. For many people, it is a high-performance sport.

Within any high-performance sport, you find great sports men and women

working alongside great coaches. But it is exceedingly rare to find someone who genuinely wears both these roles quite so comfortably as G Dale. G has been operating as a professional gliding coach for over 25 years, and racing gliders for over three decades! He is a multiple-time British National champion and current European silver medallist. I have been privileged in recent years to get to know G as a coach, a competitor, a teammate, and a friend. I have raced with him, and against him, and I can think of few people better qualified to educate others on the art of high-performance soaring.

In the first two volumes of The Soaring Engine, G explored the phenomenon of Thermal, Ridge, Wave and Convergence lift. Now, in this third volume, ‘High Performance Flying,’ G introduces us to the techniques and processes required to extract performance from the atmosphere. In other words, now we understand how the Soaring Engine works, we need to learn to drive it. Fast, consistently, and in all conditions. G will freely admit himself that he was not a natural born racing pilot. He has worked hard at developing his skills over a long period of time. But these are skills that you can learn, and that you can practice. With motivation, dedication, and armed with the right information and processes, you can achieve your goals.

This book will help you identify your own strengths and weaknesses and give you the ability to improve your own flying.

As anyone who has ever had the privilege of listening to one of G's lectures will know, he is incredibly passionate about his students and has an enviable ability to deliver key information precisely and eloquently. His coaching style is exciting and energetic, driven by a deep understanding after decades of asking himself ‘why things happen'. This latest book is no different. G has taken traditional theory and broken it down by way of simple, clear diagrams, and concise language. Throughout the book, you will find intriguing examples from

throughout G's international flying career, and he will suggest simple methods that you can use and practice.

Soaring pilots of all levels will be able to learn something from this book. From those embarking on their first badge flights, to pundits looking for that next international medal. I can certainly speak from personal experience of the benefit of G's coaching. It was only a few years ago that I was sat in the front of a two-seater as an early cross-country Junior pilot with THE G Dale!